All Ingredients

5–15% · Serum (AM or PM)

Minimizes pores, regulates sebum production, fades hyperpigmentation, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces redness.

0.5–2% · Toner or Serum (PM preferred, or AM if no sun-sensitising actives)

Oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates pores to dissolve sebum, dead skin cells, and blackheads. Anti-inflammatory and comedolytic.

0.1–2% (multi-weight formulas preferred) · Serum or Essence (AM and PM, after cleansing on damp skin)

Powerful humectant that attracts and retains up to 1000x its weight in water, plumping skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines.

0.025–1% · Serum or Moisturizer (PM only)

Gold-standard anti-aging ingredient that accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen, reduces wrinkles, fades pigmentation, and improves skin texture.

0.05–0.1% · Serum (PM only)

One conversion step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, making it significantly more potent with faster visible results while remaining OTC.

10–20% · Serum (AM, before SPF)

Potent antioxidant that brightens skin, fades dark spots, boosts collagen synthesis, and protects against UV-induced free radical damage.

0.5–5% (often in combination) · Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Lipids naturally found in the skin barrier; topical ceramides restore and reinforce the moisture barrier, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

5–10% (toners); up to 30% (peels, use sparingly) · Toner or Treatment (PM)

Water-soluble AHA exfoliant with the smallest molecule size, effectively dissolving dead skin cell bonds to reveal brighter, smoother skin and improve texture.

5–10% · Toner or Serum (PM)

Gentler AHA than glycolic acid; exfoliates, hydrates (also acts as a humectant), and brightens, making it suitable for more sensitive skin types.

3–15% · Toner (AM or PM)

Gentlest chemical exfoliant family; large molecule size means slower penetration and less irritation, making PHAs ideal for sensitive or reactive skin.

1–10% extract · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Soothing botanical rich in madecassoside, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid; repairs the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and promotes wound healing.

40–96% concentration · Essence or Serum (AM and PM)

K-Beauty hero ingredient rich in glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, and glycolic acid; hydrates, promotes healing, reduces scars, and improves skin texture.

75–95% concentration · Essence or Toner (AM and PM)

Fermented yeast filtrate rich in vitamins, amino acids, and minerals; brightens skin, minimizes pores, controls sebum, and improves overall skin texture.

1–10% (often proprietary blend) · Essence or Serum (AM and PM)

Probiotic-derived ferment that strengthens the skin microbiome, reinforces barrier function, and reduces sensitivity and inflammation.

90%+ in SK-II FTE · Essence (AM and PM)

SK-II's proprietary form of galactomyces ferment filtrate; refined through a distinct fermentation process to deliver smoother texture, radiance, and improved skin renewal.

2–5% · Serum (AM and PM)

Brightening agent that inhibits melanin transfer and is particularly effective for melasma and stubborn PIH; well tolerated compared to other brighteners.

10–20% · Serum or Treatment (AM or PM)

Multi-functional acid that treats acne, reduces redness, fades post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and inhibits tyrosinase. Also anti-inflammatory.

2.5–10% · Spot treatment or wash (AM or PM)

Antibacterial agent that kills C. acnes bacteria directly inside pores; effective for inflammatory acne, whiteheads, and as a spot treatment.

Varies by peptide type · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Short amino acid chains that signal skin to produce more collagen and elastin; firms skin, reduces wrinkles, and supports barrier function.

100% or blended · Oil or Moisturizer final step (AM and PM)

Lightweight, non-comedogenic emollient that mimics the skin's natural sebum. Seals in moisture, softens skin, and improves barrier function without greasiness.

0.5–2% · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Plant-derived retinol alternative from the babchi plant; mimics retinol's gene expression without the irritation, suitable for sensitive and pregnant skin.

Zinc PCA: 0.5–2%; Zinc Oxide: 10–25% in SPF · Serum (Zinc PCA) or Sunscreen (Zinc Oxide)

Mineral with antibacterial and oil-regulating properties. Zinc PCA reduces sebum production; Zinc Oxide provides physical UV protection.

1–5% extract · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Rich in EGCG antioxidants; protects against free radical damage, reduces inflammation, calms redness, and controls sebum production.

5–20% extract · Essence or Serum (AM and PM)

Rich in kojic acid and ferulic acid naturally; brightens skin, provides antioxidant protection, and is a traditional J-Beauty brightening staple.

100% or blended · Face oil (PM, final step)

Lightweight J-Beauty facial oil rich in oleic acid; absorbs quickly, hydrates without greasiness, and is a centuries-old Japanese beauty secret.

0.1–1% Glabridin; 1–5% extract · Serum or Essence (AM and PM)

Potent brightening ingredient that inhibits tyrosinase and disperses melanin clusters; also anti-inflammatory and soothing.

1–4% · Serum or Treatment (PM)

Derived from fungi during sake fermentation; inhibits tyrosinase to fade dark spots, melasma, and age spots. Traditional J-Beauty brightening agent.

1–2% · Serum (AM and PM)

Stable, gentle brightener derived from bearberry; inhibits tyrosinase to fade dark spots with fewer irritation risks than kojic acid or hydroquinone.

60–80% extract in essences · Serum or Essence (AM and PM)

Antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory resin from beehives; heals breakouts, calms inflammation, and provides antioxidant protection.

1–10% extract · Toner or Essence (AM and PM)

Calming K-Beauty botanical rich in vitamins, minerals, and anti-inflammatory compounds; soothes redness, balances sebum, and supports barrier health.

1–5% · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Humectant and skin-restoring agent that attracts moisture, soothes irritation, accelerates wound healing, and supports barrier function.

0.1–1% · Serum or Cream (AM and PM)

Isolated active from Centella Asiatica; reduces inflammatory cytokines, heals wounds, strengthens barrier, and calms reactive skin.

0.04–0.1% · Serum or Cream (AM and PM)

K-Beauty and J-Beauty anti-aging staple; approved by Korean MFDS as an anti-wrinkle functional ingredient. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves firmness.

0.5–1% · Serum (AM, typically in combo with Vitamin C + E)

Antioxidant that dramatically boosts the stability and efficacy of Vitamins C and E when combined; also provides independent UV protection against free radicals.

0.5–1% · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Antioxidant naturally produced by the body that declines with age; topical CoQ10 protects against oxidative stress, energizes skin cells, and reduces wrinkles.

1–5% · Serum or Mask (AM and PM)

Hydrolyzed collagen peptides act as humectants and temporary film-formers; while not directly absorbed, they hydrate and provide conditioning benefits at the surface.

2–5% in formulas (100% diluted for oils) · Face oil or Serum (PM)

Nutrient-dense oil rich in omega fatty acids, carotenoids, and vitamin E; deeply nourishes, repairs damaged skin, and provides antioxidant protection.

0.1–2% · Moisturizer or Serum (AM and PM)

Soothing, healing ingredient derived from comfrey root; promotes cell proliferation, softens keratin, and calms irritated or sensitive skin.

1–5% (Colloidal Oatmeal: 0.5–5%) · Moisturizer or Cream (AM and PM)

Clinically proven skin protectant; relieves itch, reduces inflammation, and forms a protective layer on skin. FDA-approved OTC skin protectant.

0.01% – 2% · Serum (PM)

Triggers skin's natural repair cascade — stimulates collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. Naturally occurring in human plasma but declines ~60% between ages 20–60.

3 – 8 ppm · Serum (AM or PM)

Matrikine peptide that mimics collagen breakdown fragments — signals fibroblasts to produce new collagen and elastin. Well-studied with double-blind trials showing wrinkle reduction.

5 – 10% · Serum (AM or PM)

Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that reduces muscle micro-contractions responsible for expression lines. Often called 'topical Botox' though mechanism differs — works on surface expression lines only.

4% · Serum or Cream (PM)

Synthetic peptide that mimics temple viper venom — relaxes facial muscles to smooth dynamic wrinkles. Used in premium anti-aging lines.

4% · Serum (AM or PM)

Works synergistically with Argireline to further reduce muscle contraction signals. Often combined in 'peptide complex' formulas targeting expression lines.

1,000 – 5,000 ppm (0.1 – 0.5%) · Essence or Serum (AM or PM)

DNA fragments (predominantly salmon-derived) that provide skin cells with nucleotide building blocks for repair and proliferation. Stimulates fibroblast activity, collagen synthesis, and angiogenesis. Breakout K-beauty ingredient of 2025.

1% NMN + 0.1% NAD (where labeled) · Serum (AM or PM)

NAD+ is a coenzyme critical for cellular energy and DNA repair that declines significantly with age. NMN is a more stable, bioavailable precursor that converts to NAD+ in skin cells — supports repair enzymes, cellular turnover, and oxidative stress defense.

Emerging — no consensus yet · Serum or Cream (PM)

Naturally occurring polyamine that triggers autophagy — the skin cell's self-cleaning process — clearing damaged proteins and cellular debris. Supports long-term skin longevity rather than short-term correction.

Varies by formulation — no topical standard yet · Serum or Essence (AM or PM)

Nanoscale vesicles (30–150nm) extracted from plant stem cells (Cica, Ginseng, Rose) that carry proteins, lipids, and RNA — mimicking the body's cellular communication system to signal repair and regeneration. Vegan alternative to human-derived exosomes.

0.001% EGF or higher · Serum (PM)

Proteins that bind to receptors on skin cells to trigger proliferation, collagen production, and tissue repair. EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) is most common in skincare — stimulates keratinocyte and fibroblast activity.

N/A — delivery system · Any — look for 'liposomal' on product labels

Not an active ingredient but a delivery system — phospholipid spheres that encapsulate actives (peptides, Vitamin C, retinol) and protect them until they reach deeper skin layers. Dramatically improves bioavailability of otherwise unstable ingredients.

Proprietary blend (VT Reedle Shot: 100–700 spicule concentrations) · Serum (PM, 1–3x per week)

Microscopic needle-like crystals from freshwater sponges that create micro-channels in the skin — enhancing penetration of active ingredients by up to 10x compared to surface application. Popularized by K-beauty brand VT Cosmetics' Reedle Shot series (11.7M+ units sold by 2025).

· Sunscreen (AM only, as part of SPF formula)

Photostable silicone-based UV filter that provides broad UVB protection without degrading in sunlight, commonly used in Japanese sunscreens.

0.1–2% · Serum or Essence (AM and PM, apply to damp skin)

Salt form of hyaluronic acid with a smaller molecular size that penetrates deeper into the skin, delivering more targeted hydration than standard hyaluronic acid.

· Serum, Essence, or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Broken-down collagen that acts as a surface humectant and film former, hydrating and smoothing the skin's surface.

· Sunscreen (AM only, apply 20 min before sun exposure)

One of the most widely used chemical UV filters worldwide, providing effective UVB protection in lightweight, cosmetically elegant sunscreen formulations.

· Sunscreen (AM only)

Advanced broad-spectrum UV filter protecting against both UVA and UVB with exceptional photostability — one of the most effective UV filters available.

· Any step (AM and PM)

Anti-inflammatory botanical that soothes and calms irritated skin, reducing redness and sensitivity through its active compound bisabolol.

10–77% · Toner or Serum (AM and PM)

A plant extract with documented antibacterial and sebum-regulating properties; frequently used as a high-percentage base in K-beauty toners to calm acne-prone and reactive skin without stripping.

0.5–4% · Toner or Exfoliant (PM preferred, or AM with SPF)

A gentler alternative to salicylic acid that delivers the same oil-soluble, pore-penetrating exfoliation with reduced irritation potential — the preferred BHA in K-beauty for daily use without sensitivity.

0.5–5% · Serum (AM and PM)

A master antioxidant that inhibits melanin synthesis by switching the pathway from eumelanin (dark brown) to phaeomelanin (lighter pigment) — working at a different point in the cascade than niacinamide or tranexamic acid.

1–10% extract · Toner or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

A traditional Japanese grain rich in polysaccharides and vitamin B1 with anti-inflammatory and brightening properties; widely used in J-beauty toners and gels to even tone and reduce redness over time.

0.01–0.5% · Moisturizer or Treatment (PM)

A deep blue aromatic compound derived from chamomile or tansy; functions as an anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing agent, commonly used as a targeted calming treatment for reactive and breakout-prone skin.

30–80% (as a base) · Essence or Serum (AM and PM)

Fermentation unlocks soy's isoflavones, ceramide precursors, and amino acids in a more bioavailable form — supports barrier integrity, reduces redness, and delivers antioxidant protection with better skin penetration than raw soy extract.

0.1–5% extract (standardized for ginsenosides) · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Korean red ginseng's ginsenoside compounds have demonstrated collagen synthesis support, antioxidant activity, and circulation improvement — a high-prestige active in Korean luxury skincare with centuries of documented use.

20–80% (as a formulation base) · Cleanser or Toner base (AM and PM)

Mineral-rich spring water from specific geological sources, shown to modulate inflammatory responses and support the skin microbiome — the anti-irritant base behind La Roche-Posay's Toleriane and Cicaplast lines.

1–10% (varies by ferment type) · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

Bioactive byproducts of probiotic fermentation — including short-chain fatty acids, peptides, and exopolysaccharides — that support the skin microbiome, strengthen the barrier, and reduce inflammatory signaling.

0.1–5% extract · Moisturizer or Serum (AM and PM)

A polysaccharide-rich mushroom extract functioning as a natural humectant with particles smaller than standard hyaluronic acid — enabling deeper epidermal penetration and superior water-retention at the surface.

2–10% (hydration) · 20–40% (keratolytic/body use) · Moisturizer or Body Treatment (AM and PM)

A dual-function ingredient: at low concentrations (2–10%) it draws water into the skin as a powerful humectant; at higher concentrations (20%+) it actively breaks down keratin for texture smoothing and callus treatment.

0.1–1% · Serum or Moisturizer (AM and PM)

A ceramide precursor that the skin uses to synthesize its own ceramides — working upstream of topical ceramides. Also has antimicrobial properties against acne-causing bacteria, making it useful for both barrier repair and acne-prone skin.

5–12% · Body Moisturizer (PM, or AM with SPF on exposed skin)

A lactic acid salt formulated at a higher pH for tolerability — exfoliates rough body skin and acts as a humectant simultaneously, clinically proven for keratosis pilaris, xerosis, and ichthyosis.

3–10% · Any step (common in cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers)

One of the most well-studied humectants in skincare; draws water into the skin from the environment and deeper skin layers, improving hydration and supporting barrier function.

0.5–1% · Serum or Moisturizer (AM or PM)

Fat-soluble antioxidant that helps protect skin from free-radical damage and supports the skin barrier; often paired with Vitamin C to boost its stability.

Varies by formula · Moisturizer or Body (AM or PM)

Rich, fatty-acid-dense emollient that softens skin and helps reduce moisture loss; a traditional moisturizing staple with a long history of use.

0.1–2% · Serum or Moisturizer (AM or PM)

Polysaccharide derived from sources like oats or yeast that soothes irritation, supports the skin barrier, and holds moisture at the skin's surface.

Varies by formula · Any step (common as a base in gels, toners, and after-sun products)

Soothing plant extract with a long history of topical use; calms irritation, provides light hydration, and is commonly used on sun-exposed or freshly-exfoliated skin.

5–10% · Serum or Toner (PM preferred, or AM with SPF)

Larger-molecule AHA derived from bitter almonds; exfoliates more slowly and gently than glycolic acid, making it a common starting point for AHA-sensitive skin or deeper skin tones concerned about post-inflammatory pigmentation.

5% or less in leave-on formulas · Serum or Spot Treatment (AM or PM)

Essential oil with natural antibacterial properties, traditionally used to spot-treat blemishes and calm breakout-prone skin.

Varies by formula · Serum (AM or PM)

Plant-derived antioxidant (notably from grapes) studied for its ability to help protect skin from environmental and UV-related free-radical damage.

Typically used in blends at low concentrations · Serum or Toner (PM preferred, or AM with SPF)

AHA derived from apples, often used alongside other acids in exfoliating formulas to support cell turnover and smoother texture.

Varies by formula · Any step (common in moisturizers and barrier-repair formulas)

A blend of naturally-occurring humectant compounds (amino acids, urea, lactic acid, and others) that mimics what skin already produces to hold onto water.

Varies by formula (often used as a high-percentage toner base) · Toner or Serum (AM or PM)

Natural source of salicin, a compound related to (but gentler and less concentrated than) synthesized salicylic acid; used for mild exfoliation and calming breakout-prone skin.

Varies by formula · Cleanser or Mask

Natural humectant with mild antibacterial properties; traditionally used to soothe and hydrate skin.

Varies by formula · Moisturizer (AM or PM)

Highly refined occlusive that forms a protective layer on skin to reduce water loss; a well-established, non-comedogenic ingredient despite its reputation.

Varies by formula · Serum or Essence (AM or PM)

Live or derived beneficial microorganisms used to support a balanced skin microbiome, which plays a role in barrier health and calming reactivity.